Ich bin Abenteurer und Autor - Blogs:
https://abenteuerbaltikum.com
https://transkaukasien.com
https://ringstrasseisland.wordpress.com
Die Büchern dazu gibt's in meinem Verlag AmpelPublishing - https://ampelpublishing.de
30.000 km lief ich in den letzten 12 Jahren, 20.000 km Rad fuhr ich in den letzten 4 Jahren.
3 größere Abenteuer haben mich so beeindruckt, daß ich Bücher dazu gemacht habe:
Abenteuer Atlantik - 4.000 km entlang der Westküste Europas: Portugal, Spanien, Frankreich, Belgien,. Niederlande.
Abenteuer Transkaukasien - unterwegs im Osten Osteuropas: Russland, Aserbaidschan, Georgien, Ukraine, Österreich zurück nach Deutschland
Abenteuer Baltikum - Mein Lauf 2000 km entlang der Ostsee von Stralsund nach Tallinn / Helsinki
I‘m a runner and I could tell some short stories about running.
30,000 k I ran in the last twelve years. Two blogs I wrote:
2019 https://transkaukasien.com : Run and travel in Russia, Azerbaidshan, Georgia, Ucraine, Austria and back to Germany.
2017 https://abenteuerbaltikum.com : 2000 km along the Baltic Sea coast - Germany, Poland, Russia, Lituania, Latvia, Estonia, Finland.
Today I wanted to approach my route concentrated and powerful, because the many long days in a row have cost quite a bit of grain. But I also seem to be trained a bit and am fully in my adventure Iceland.
There was no supermarket or gas station on yesterday’s route for the last 90 km. Therefore I had to rely on the guesthouse and gladly accepted the breakfast. Already in the evening I had a Margerita made warm. A few remaining dishes I wanted to save in case there was also nothing today. After all, 16 km before the goal a gas station with small food assortment.
All around mountain ranges
I set off slightly late, at least I didn’t have another capital to visit today. First 5 km gravel road (!), then in wind direction 15 km, then sharp curve and 18 km against the wind to the west and then finally on the ring road back to the east. I drove practically 32 km to advance 3.5 km as the crow flies. But that went not differently.
They are so great. Already the hairstyle! A little shy but then they gain confidence
Apart from the relatively distant mountain ranges, there was not much to see. I rode upstream along the Hvita, but takes tailwind, which was not bad.
My Atlantic Adventure in a slideshow – Rotterdam NL to Brest FRThe Hvita meanders left through The Valley
It was at first very green, partly even with small trees, but later with the height it became more and more barren.
At this gas station a huge volcano (probably). With us I would have guessed rather on a spoil heap. On top of it people were walking!
The gas stations have here generally no roofing, I suppose that the normal roofs could not carry the snow load at all. And if it whistles horizontally here, the roof is of no use and is simply torn away at some point.
As long as possible without jacket, that goes this weather
In the guest house I had washed all my stinking sports clothes under the shower, because longer I could not put on the smell and these buy drying and with sweat and salt soaked clothes. Everything stuck and stank. Well today I wanted to try to drive without a jacket, then the sweat is better transported away by the wind. One was only not possible to stop, then it became cold!
Before the distances I had further respect
I will still drive some detour over the fjords but is already nice to see the important intermediate destination Akureyri and also the destination Egilsstadir already. Today is half time yeah! 10 of 20 tours are done! Almost 1000 km in 10 days. The weather was merciful and I would like to know what I have to do to keep it that way.
Further up the wind whistled properly!
The landscape was further spectacular and at the tops partly shrouded in mist.
In the center of the picture on the horizon is already in 28 km distance my goal at the fjord.
Another river accompanied me now and went in my direction. I made an effort to photograph its gorge, but somehow I didn’t get it captured. It was blocked off with a fence.
Opposite, the clouds only hesitantly cleared the snow-covered slopes.So then down to the fjord into the greenery
The descent was unusually steep and I let roll. The wheel did not vibrate and ran extremely good-naturedly despite luggage. Thus I came on over 80 km/h. The road was dry, went straight, there was no traffic, so why not?
Cute sheeps at Hrutnafjördur
At the gas station I bought breakfast and ate something. Thereby my watch said goodbye to the battery without announcement. So I had to record the last part separately.
I visited the capital for a short time before heading north. First stop was this house on the waterfront. After the government bought it for representational purposes in the late 60s, it gained its highest importance in the late 80s: Presidents Gorbachev and Reagan met here on neutral ground for an approximate talk. It is considered the beginning of the end of the Cold War. One could say that had the conversation not taken place here, I might still be stuck in the GDR today, dreaming of visiting my cousin in West Germany as a pensioner. She would send me Jacob’s coffee, oranges, Lindt chocolates and, above all, “Werthers Echte” by mail at Christmas. Customs would not have discovered the hundred DeutschMarks in the coffee can….
But here I am, in Reykjavik, looking at the city!The center with pubs and coffeesThe metropolitan area has 190.000 inhabitants- more than half of the whole countryThe city is growing strongly, not by influx of foreigners, also by strong births.The Halgrimskirkja, the landmark
I was talking with Chris from Toronto. How neither of them would have thought the church looked so new, they must have renovated it a bit.
Another bottle of juice in this general store (in German „Krambude“), and then it goes out of the city
I had a big four-lane arterial road to deal with for 30 km, where there was also a bike lane. But the bike traffic is still in the baby phase. Nowhere signs and erratic wayfinding. You can just cycle here for a few months. But it’s increasing. And here they have #morespaceforbikes !
Only after the turnoff towards Thingevellir (road 38) it became quiet again. At home we have enough cars!
Cycle track parallel to the road – well, it works!
Around Reykjavik there are surprisingly many smaller forest pieces. Here is afforested probably already longer and it is not completely simple. Because of the climate and the soils, only 30% of the seedlings eventually make it. Once there is more forest, further reforestation is easier.
Now we have mountains and Icelandic horses again!
Just before Þingvellir – Thingvellir at a lookout point I was taking pictures when John from Utah came in with a whole bunch and set up his equipment. He does photo and film workshops and just moved his masterclass to Iceland for a few days, what costs the world! He also photographed me and liked my bike trip. Maybe I can get the pictures he took with his Rollei.
John (right) with his disciples
The Þingvellir is an important place. For hundreds of years the parliamentary sessions – Althing – were held here in the open air. All horse trails led to this point. Only the Danes dissolved this custom in the 18th century.
Coffee break – yes, with two pieces of vegan cake at a bargain price (I’kidding).
Not much to see, really, except for a few narrow canyons once opened up by earth plate movements.
It was getting warmer
I drove on, because I still had a lot to do. For a long time I thought about how I could get to my remote destination. Because closer to the ring road number 1 there was already at the end of January no more accommodation. Also with Jaap I had discussed this and with view of Thingvellir then for the inland route over the roads 38 and 52 to the 50 decided.
Epic view on landscape
Included were 10-15 km of gravel road, but there were with the other route also. Since I would have driven then long on a shore road along two fjords and at the end, I calculated later, exactly the same distance. And Fjordehatte I and I would have again in the north.
Steep up and down but doable
With super weather I was in the best mood. Almost windless and warm.
An unbelievably beautiful area like in the Pamir, Iran or Afghanistan perhaps.
Admittedly there was here – for the time being – the good road and not only a few tire prints of warlords in the dust. There is good cycling.
On the horizon a glacier – could also be Tibet
On this intersection then began the gravel route. Because of this route on day 9 and two routes at the end of the tour I had decided against the road bike and for the aluminum gravel bike Poison Taxin.
This is the right road for my bike
So far I had, except for the 10 km in Reydarfjördur only asphalt to cope. I estimated 10-15 km and there was also a sign 11 km. I would already manage that. Now also an off-road vehicle came, but without MG and without terrorists behind it. He hardly pulled dust behind him. I had caught the short period of time when the road was neither muddy from the rain nor dusty from the dryness. There are often only a few hours between muddy road and dusty road. I felt splendid -king of the road. The bike (considered by some as too soft) was good for the road and I broke partly even with tailwind. I was well in time and saw me already on the sun terrace of the remote Guesthouse Hvita. What should still happen on the last 45 of 126 kilometers?
Flat tire – hm
I felt a pretty strong lump and then I had my flat tire. The better tires were the only extra I had allowed myself. Not good enough apparently. After a total of 20 km of gravel it had already hit me. I just thought that the gravel part would be over soon.
The road was watered – why?
I put on the only new tube and patched the broken one. Two parallel cracks each 3 mm testified to the frontal knockout. So called „snakebites“. then I packed everything up. I didn’t get much air on it and pushed my bike for now. Stephan from Hamburg had still said, take two tubes with you. And I wanted to avoid now in any case a second flat tire. It could not be more to the asphalt.
Apparently there was construction work, therefore also the watering of the road
I trudged bravely over the freshly watered gravel layer and sauteed me and my bike more and more. Interesting, then to put away the disappointment when after the crest another valley opens up with another 5 km of gravel. 4 Danish women came to meet me in a Golf and said that there were certainly another 10 km of gravel. That became a long day! I then got two Twix “Salty Caramel”. Good Luck. OK, I can use them.
Such an off-road vehicle. Now.
Of course, there was no truck that could have taken me a few kilometers. Not now. But Hectoro and Irina from Genoa! They had a compressor and we pumped up until the compressor weakened. 2.8 bar – that was good!
I had to drive again, otherwise I would be out here for many more hours. So carefully we started again and at some point the gravel road actually ended after 24 km. But the weather suddenly changed. As Jaap said several times: “the weather could change with a click of the finger”. So it was. Rain clouds came up and headwind set in. Why not, it was only 25 km.
Dusty Road
But then it didn’t get that bad. Sheep left and right, only very little drizzle, and when I finally reached road 50, the wind came from behind again. The luck was back.
Evening mood at the Hvita
I started to take pictures again and around 20:30 I reached the inn in the Spessart, no at the Hvita, so also at the end of the world!
Once again I was lucky!The alternative turn along the fjords would have been even 3 km longerPlease turn the pic to the right.
Today was a hiking day in my Iceland adventure. With a true friend I could look inside the nature, where nobody lives. And also a bath in a natural hot tub was possible!
Today was challenging but beautiful with a hike into Hveragerdi Park. I had decided to accept Jaap’s invitation and take a trip into the “real Icelandic world” – including hot springs. Who could resist. I hadn’t even started that topic yet!
Jaap with his Toyota Hilux
Jaap has a vehicle suitable for the inland of Iceland. The Hilux with cabin attachment can wade through rivers and copes with every gravel road that is open. With that, he drove up and I was happy.
We stowed the bike in the camper
It took me only 13 km to get to Hveragerdi. Today I did not continue cycling, but we went hiking.
At the beginning of the gravel road the air in the tires was reduced to be able to drive better
With a normal car you should not drive in there. It shook us properly through, because there are also large chunks on the “road”. The road has just been prepared. Because the capital is growing and with the development of new residential areas, they need new steam pipelines, which are fed with geothermal energy. And for the development they need to prepare the road.
Attention- hot spring
Hot springs were our topic today, because there are plenty of them here. The area lies directly above the fissure of the European and American continental plates. And the earth’s crust is correspondingly thin here.
The smell of rotten eggs is spreading
Everywhere it steams and bubbles. Hot steam and hot water want to reach the surface.
A hot stream pours out, mixed with cold inflows to pleasant temperatures.
We first made a walk to a public bathing area. Jaap has thought of everything and brought a towel and a bathing suit for me.
So we lie then in the hot water and enjoy the mountain scenery
“We have something like that in the Alps, only with cold water!” we have to laugh. The experience is totally crazy. You strip down to your swimsuit in cold Iceland and then lie in pleasantly hot water of a mountain stream. I can’t believe it!
After that, we set off into a most different looking landscape.
First we trudge a long way down into a valley (although we know that we have to go up again towards the end). But down is easier for now.
Again and again we pass “private” hot tubs, but of course they can be much too hot or too cold.
To the hot springs the typical waterfalls are added, which I can look at now in peace from all sides.
From the most different lakes and reservoirs the waterfalls feed themselves
The hiking trails are marked with pillars (blue-yellow or red-yellow), to which we have to adhere. There are heavy penalties for leaving them.
We come through a canyon
Jaap had also brought me real hiking boots that are tread-proof. Because we pass again and again stone fields, cliffs and streams. Here there is no bridge, we also meet no hikers.
Shimmering in all colors
“We have something like that here too, it’s called the chemical industry,” I said to Jaap. Because the vapors are toxic, as also the colors look. I think longer about where I know this smell from: In my childhood we lived in the house of a car workshop and they welded with carbide. That’s how it smells.
Cooking facilities
Here you have everything at once: mountains, waterfalls and hot springs. Further back behind a mountain lake is a snow covered mountain range.
I am briefly unsure whether we have not landed on the moon. The satellite town is already there.
At this time I’m already reasonably done and we have the option to hike back the same way for 2.5 hours or ….. But I have never done that before! Jaap knows a shortcut, because he has been here many times. Even in winter, when there are no signs and trail markings at all. Then with cross country ski. He learned his good sense of direction from the Bedouins. He is not only from the Netherlands, but has also lived in Italy, Asia, the Middle East and all over the world. In the desert, you can only orient yourself by the position of the sun and the stars. I myself had lost these. I relied on it completely.
Over hill and daleJaap ahead The stone formations changed again and again appearance and color
We philosophized about the world, checked off the difficult topics and in the end we were of the opinion that we had not done badly. That’s how it is when you are on the road long enough.
We had plenty of rivers to cross without getting wet. It works!After a little eternity we reached our expedition mobile
Jaap whistled and sang to himself the whole time. He needs these trips into the wilderness. With this vehicle he can go everywhere, where it is allowed, for several days.
Here are a few kilometers missing, because the GPS watch was down
We ate another extremely tasty pizza and Jaap still brought me to the hostel. A long very very nice day with something completely new. Certainly it was worth taking the camera bag. We’ll see about that later.
Today the weather was merciful, although it rained in the last third. Saw the most beautiful waterfall so far.
Departure from Hostel in Vik
I tried to get away earlier. But from yesterday I still had to finish the German and English blog and meanwhile I enjoyed the anthill atmosphere in the kitchen. What people eat in the morning!
I hoped for a tailwind but first I had to ride the 2.4 km uphill against the wind back to the ring road. There the mouse did not bite off a thread!
I had not looked at Vik and the famous beach yesterday, I just wanted to take a shower.
It was just cloudy outside and that was fine with me. Where there are many clouds, there is not much wind.
The wind was merciful and came from diagonally behind.
The area was not so spectacular at first. Every now and then you could see Myrdalsjökull shining between the rocks. Glaciers are a fascination. I went already again to photograph. Actually I wanted to go through more, as long as the wind was favorable. If I arrive earlier, I have more time for rest. And 130 km must be driven first.
The Myrdalsjökull and its outflow
The first waterfall announced itself: Skogafoss. And what a waterfall!
Skogafoss in the back on the right
You could drive up to it and as a cyclist you still get further when cars have no chance anymore.
Kay and Jane from Hongkong
I asked Kay and Jane to take my picture and offered it to them. They had several cameras and cell phones hanging around their necks. That took a while. They did a good job though.
In front of spectacular Skogafoss
Here in the west of Iceland tourists come together – with me!
Almost Overtorism
There was even a café. If this continues, we will soon have Portuguese conditions. Every few kilometers 2 Galão, 2 cakes….
The best pictures of Portugal in my last year Atlantic AdventureNice Cafe by the Skogafoss
I let myself enjoy the first real coffee since 10 days. There were then more mountains to my right, as the partly fertile alluvial land stretched to the sea on my left. I even saw cows for the first time!
And I saw a – let’s say – unorthodox art installation.
We should make such art also in our catholic village in the german Rhineland. It doesn’t have to have names on it.
Another glacier, the famous Eyjafjallajökull
The volcano of the same name, made famous by the 2010 eruption, lies directly below. At that time nobody flew in half of Europe and the solar radiation was also decimated – climate protection! Here exceptionally the Wikipedia link to it. Wikipedia-Link dazu.
I met Othello and Garance from Paris.
The couple has been on the road for three days and I will definitely meet them again on the northern half. We talked briefly about the many green bike lanes that Mayor Anne Hidalgo has pushed through. I want to check it out and try it out one day. With the Tad through Paris, and not in the peleton of the ‘Tour de France’. The two think that’s good, because they also ride in space
Another foss (waterfall)
No, there were several next to each other. There must be a large reservoir above or ice from Eyjafjallajökull thawing.
Remarkable height (40 m for sure) and fine width.
It’s funny when I decide to get the right camera out, maybe even another lens. I think ‘hurry up or he’ll stop’. But this isn’t the shock bucket in the sauna! It doesn’t dry up that quickly. I can imagine it in high summer, though.
The mountains with a beautiful cloud tail , you can also see the weather change.
Eric overtook me again. That’s crazy too. He was one of the residents in our cabin and has been driving his Dacia Sandero around Europe for months. Now he is on Iceland for four weeks and has made a plan of the sights. Because it takes me three weeks, he drives on the southern route like me and most of it comes only in the north, we pass each other almost daily. I already know his horn and wave without turning around. At first we had still stopped, but this is going too far. I have his number and if something happens, he saves me! A great guy from the department ‘Calvados’ in Brittany!
My book for the atlantic biketrips Algarve-Bretagne and Rotterdam-Bretagne is available everywhere and at http://ampelpublishing.de
The other flatmate is with his BMW sidecar in the west and north on the way. Because I could hin also alert.
The luck of this earth…
Further and further away moves the mountains and the wind blows from behind. That’s good, but now the rain has prevailed. No heavy rain, but the road has puddles and the more and more drivers force me to the edge. I had already reported the divergent attitude to cyclists. If one swerves once, they honk immediately. They have no patience with us. We tourists annoy them.
I give gas, before the wind still changes and fly there.
A couple at the gas station in Hella I still met a cyclist couple from Liguria. The two were most different and super friendly. They wanted to know everything about my equipment. He had bought everything at Decathlon and complained a bit about the weight of the bags, the bike but not his own. They were a bit jealous when I revved up again right out of the gas station and chased away. I had eaten a huge mountain of noodles in Hvolsvöllur and the gas had to go!
The last mountain for today before the gates of Selfoss’.
You don’t know what’s in the fog. It could be a TV tower of 1000 m height or just a thick pancake. Nobody knows.
Today was the longest tour so far, but now to the beginning.
View from the house in Svinafell.
Even before breakfast, I had to step outside the door once to feast my eyes on this sight. Such a peaceful scenery. I would come to this house again anytime:: http://www.svinafell.com/
Svinafellsjökull
I was all alone in the house and ate my groceries: 10 thick crackers with 10 slices of cheese and two drinking yogurt – or drinking skyr (the Iceland „yogurt“.
Deutsch -> abenteuerbaltikum.comOnly from far away one realizes how extensive Vatnajökull is.
I went soon on the way, because before the 150 km today I had nevertheless some respect. I should be confronted with the foothills of Vatnajökull still several times. The glaciers have their own names, but they all originate from Vatnajökull, the largest glacier massif of Iceland, which stretches far to the south. That’s why I can take the pictures.
The black edge between the two rocks is the defrost edge
Here at this last one you could see well how glaciers melt. On a white surface not much happens at first, because the sunlight is reflected. But if rocks are sticking out or the edge is black from rock residues or thousands of years old or fresh impurities, then the area around thaws fast because of the absorption of the light. It becomes warm more quickly. In the Alps, people have tried to cover this dark edge with white foil, but with little success.
Looking ahead to the next block
Considering that we usually only see the weathered basalt cores of volcanoes, how much larger they must have been when the lava was still around and on top after it had calmed down.
Florian from Austria
Florian stopped politely when I called from across the street. Because he is faster than me and wants to make the circumnavigation in 16 days. Is however always also a question of the route. Coming from Reykjavik, he immediately made a detour via Landmannalaugar . He is fit to the last muscle. His equipment is perfect with the latest bikepacker bags. But he also praised my concept. Maybe we will see each other again in the north, because all those who drive against my direction and started in Reykjavik, should arrive in the north, when I am there too.
I also met the good-humored Justin from Texas. Without helmet, with 40 years old touring bike and clear luggage. But he has the most important thing with him: his guitar. A fine guy, I’m sure I’ll meet him again in the north, only much later than Florian.
Es gibt wieder Wasserfälle!There are waterfalls again!
I ride along the rock faces, but always only gradual climbs and no great ramps.
Above will be snow or ice on it, otherwise there would not be the waterfallsBelow, the water runs somewhere towards the sea in the form of a river. But here especially beautiful as rapids
We are in the south of Iceland and there quickly accumulate people at this beautiful attraction. I had to fight with my motives with a woman who photographed with a large camera and tripod in the water. The motive did not open up to me, whenever I wanted to pull the trigger, she came into the picture with her tripod. But she didn’t stay long at the new spot. I went out of her way and when I had a good motive, the woman with the red dress came. She feels like a mermaid or something and gave instructions to the man in the lumberjack shirt how she wants to be perceived. Then again control, then new picture. Crazy but not so rare! Around that I had to make then also still a bow.
On the road again
First came a very gentle green area. Then it became more barren.
You can not see all this on the pictures
Could be the waterfall of the day!
Somehow I had a form low after almost half of the distance at km 72 in Kirkjubæjarklaustur. Because it was still far. I drank a coffee at the gas station and dried my clothes. It was relatively warm and I wanted to try it without a jacket. In the café, the two blond-haired colleagues needed a mood kick like me and turned the music louder. They wiggled their – xxx, well they moved their bodies according to the music. After this bad disco music I have also danced for nights, but actually terrible – clear. First came Merry me, then this Spanish bouncy music and on and on. That jumped also on me and I drove strengthened with best mood further.
On the road againThe view to rhis Lupines was like a balm for my soul
I turned into the wind, or the wind turned toward me. In any case, it was the end of the warm coziness. I kicked smaller and smaller gears and pulled through. Still 40 km. They could get long.
I hoped that the mountain ahead would take away some of the wind.
And they became long. There was no escape, I had to go through it now. It was getting colder, but I was also producing a lot of energy. Since this morning I had eaten up little by little everything I had: 3 bananas, an old bar and finally also the cakes of Brindis from Stödvarfjördur. They were getting worse, but brought energy!
The Myrdalsjökull
I drove in a semicircle around this glacier, which lay in the golden evening light, but for the psyche it would have been better, if something had moved there.
Green landscape again
I pedaled with small gear. A boon were closely passing trucks, but there came now also not so many. I met three guys from Switzerland, they had driven only 70 km, but totally exhausted. They also wanted to Vik and said it was shorter than indicated. Up to the supermarket it was also (had Gottseidank until 21 o’clock open). But I noticed that my hostel was behind a mountain and I had to go another 7.5 km.
Wonderful evening mood with glacierThus I had with all exhaustion nevertheless still these impressions
Down in the valley in Vik was long shadow and it was now really cold. then finally the hostel. 21:25 o’clock. I had not much more in my batteries.
Today again the usual view
I just see that it went downhill on the 40 km headwind passage to the last tip. And still it was so hard, think around 6-8 m/s.
Before we leave, I have to mention the hostel in Höfn. There were all kinds of people gathered there: pierced, dark, chubby, vegan, old, white from all continents. I didn’t expect that and I find it exciting. All cooked in the evening in a jumble Chinese, Indian, Italian or quite simply like me, who made himself only three pizza slices warm. From 10 p.m. on, it was supposed to be quiet, but in the kitchen they discussed in all languages until late at night.
In the morning on the pasture in Höfn
At breakfast it went on like this. I asked a man, who had had problems with the WLAN and was already sitting in front of his laptop again, if everything was working. Yes wonderful bund he would like to show me something on my cell phone. In three steps he added me as a subscriber to his YouTube channel! Unbelievable, where is there something like that. Lee from Montreal didn’t know me very well. Now he had to open my blog and subscribe. He still asked: “do I have to?” Yes, dear Lee, I have to! The story kept me busy during the day, because I was seldom caught off guard like that.
With these distances one has already respect
I packed up quickly, because today was 130 km announced. But right at the exit of the village I photographed already again the horses in front of the backdrop of the glaciers. A large part of the time goes for photographing drauf. But probably I need the breaks anyway to the compensation for the Sitzerei on the wheel.
I came closer and closer to the Vatnajökull glacier massif.
One can observe in Iceland in low altitude of the glacier, and that I made today over hours!
This many meters thick ice shield pushes downhill and thaws but steadily faster than it builds up again.
Today again animal stories: A small annoying bird attacked me. But surely nothing could happen because I had a helmet on. Whenever I thought something was broken and squeaked in the last days, it was these birds.
Now I was finally able to take a picture of one
Almost sunk into a daydream I was awakened by a dog. He passed me on the right and ran alongside!
The Australian Shepherd seemed harmless
The dog had a good confition and I had trouble keeping up. I just wondered “where is he going?” Surely he belonged to one of the farms here. But no, he kept running. That couldn’t be healthy.
My companion
First I slowed down and spoke to him, but he didn’t let me stop him. We passed some homesteads. Once he even changed the side of the road and I warned the cars to be careful!
Freedom!
At a Einbreidbru I waited for the oncoming traffic and he with me. I had to do something! Afterwards I became famous like Jonas Deichmann, who had a stray dog as a companion in Mexico and came with it in the first television program.
The owners?
Behind the bridge parked a motor home with Matteo, Verena and Giaccomo from Lake Maggiore. But they didn’t know the Hind either. We spoke and they identified the phone number on the collar. Matteo contacted the owner and everything became fine. Now we just had to be careful that he did not run away again. Verena pulled off her scarf and knotted it as the dog’s collar. She has five dogs herself and almost had a sixth one. Good thing this dog story was so different from the one in Azerbaijan!
Jim yelled from a distance if everything was OK? We stopped and talked. He rides an old Australian touring bike brand “Atlantis” around the island. It was still easy for him today (headwind) but he was in great spirits. A great guy. He told me about a 1500 mile tour of Ireland. Yes that could be done!
The glacier is really huge. You can’t see the biggest part of it, because the ice massif, which measures many kilometers, lies on top between the peaks like in a bowl.
Such a glacier is a super scenery. I actually wanted to take less pictures to get ahead faster, but how should that be possible?
Bridge at the Great Glacier Lake
From far away I saw a long structure glittering in the sun. What should that be? A car traffic jam? Where was it supposed to come from? It was one of two parking lots at the glacier lagoon. There were very large tents set up, a few booths, barbecue smoke rising. Civilization! I was at km 85 and did not want to pause yet. I had just gossiped with a bikepacker from Toulouse. I had given him of my specialty from Stödvarfjördur matured to the Ilse cake and we chewed together the dry stuff. A really great guy, who has already cycled through half of Europe. Maybe I’ll meet him, Jim and the others again who went around Iceland the other way. Most of them come by plane and leave from Reykjavik.
The ice chunks float in the water towards the Atlantic, a great spectacle that attracts hundreds. Fat Icetrucks bring onlookers in their down jackets on the glacier or with boats between the ice chunks.
I tried selfies again in the gravel desert to the right of the road
It was not easy to set up the bike in the scree. Just when it had fallen over and I wanted to readjust, it honked from the road! That was Anna from Amberg with her mother. She is a friend of Tim Kleinwächter, the para-athlete I rode Tamdem with in February! What a great surprise. He had informed them and they had then actually found me. Tim Kleinwächter, dem Parasportler, mit dem ich im Februar Tamdem gefahren bin!
With photographer is better
I was allowed to harness her to take photos in front of the glacier backdrop. Anna is good at it and I am happy to have some great pictures. Once the book “Adventure Iceland” is written, the picture will be on the cover. Let’s see.
Before that I want to promote my previous books, you can get them in every bookstore and directly in my small publishing house (then with dedication!)
Get these adventures! As book, ebook, audiobook, Party also in english – everywhere and on http://ampelpublishing.de
Thank you, dear Anna, I have meanwhile looked through, they are really good!
You can’t get enough of them and I ever had this in front of my eyes for many hours!
The dog, photograph, why did I actually not arrive later than usual despite the many kilometers? I had mostly tailwind – an incredible process in cycling life!
I rode in a semicircle around the glacier
I quickly reeled off the remaining 40 km and rode past the accommodation to a gas station.
Opposite this picture!
They had food and I was able to buy my breakfast.
Veggieburger, fries and soup of the day
The lodging people didn’t know about my reservation, oh shock, but they still had guest rooms.
A house as it can not be more typical for Iceland
I parked my bike in the stable
There was no one else in this house, all took the campsite. So I made myself comfortable and watched the horses from the window.
Behind the house a waterfall – that is Iceland!
Today a not so perfect view of my tour, the sport watch had said goodbye and there are two partial tours recorded. But here is the overview.
Today is the big day for biodiversity. But we’ll get to that later.
Now it’s official: This is an adventure!
I had nothing to expect. There was no coffee at the campsite, the café and supermarket were closed. It was good that I saved the Danish pastry. It was very filling and contains the two most important nutrients for human beings: carbohydrates and fat. Everything else is bonus track.
I set off again and rode the fjords. 104 km were planned, and they were.
Miracles always happen
Anna had pointed out to me on facebook that even single steps on the moss are very damaging.
Right next to the road
I have two excuses: I stepped with much consideration only very little on it (but that’s just bad) and a little bit the moss has itself to blame. It does not grow 30 cm from the asphalt. But Anna is right, it really does not have to be. Because where do the 500 species grow – not in the city park of Reykjavik, but in the lonely east of the country, because nobody steps on it. So all further pictures here without!
Enchanting
How manifold and not inconspicuous but lush the flowering plants assert themselves against any weather unbill!
The many lupines , which are blooming right now as if they were lavender, are a consequence of climate change and are probably causing problems. They are crowding out other less competitive plants. People are actually trampling around in it, unbelievable!
Does anyone else need gravel?
A lot of gravel is falling along the coast. Huge piles of rubble also occasionally slide down as avalanches and are secured.
Great view from above on the beach
The wind showed itself merciful for the time being and I made good progress. The slope of this ramp, however, challenged me. At the top was a couple from Bavaria who addressed me with “This is suicide”. I said it was not against life but for making such a tour. The woman offered me a honey wafer, I took it immediately.
There are birds nesting in this wall, I photographed there for a very long time with the telephoto. Let’s see later if it has become something.
There was no place between the start and finish today. So it was clear, at some point I had to settle down and cook. In the course of the first 50 km I had made at least the first of the two cake bags from Brindis from Stödvarfjördur empty. Despite headwind the bites slide extremely badly. But I was full for the time being. The things become still my life insurance. I always have something with me.
The landscape remained spectacular.
When I turned to Stafafell, a kind of run-off zone, because of the glacier water leveled bay with fertile soil and agriculture, the wind blew me almost from the wheel. But inside was gloriously warm, windless weather. Good for me, because to the exit of Stafafell it was certainly 25 more friendly kilometers.
I know em from the ferry!
As I approached the 70 km, I met at a rest area the Nico from Argentina and a girl from Bavaria, one from Switzerland. We had met each other briefly at the departure in the loading deck of the ferry. The three drive together, each:r on their own. Last night they camped out in the cold on a black beach (by the gravel piles). I found myself in good company and got out all my cooking stuff. Perfect in the sunshine!
The Uncle Bens Risi Bisi tasted like nothing
I mixed in (too much) vegetable broth and let it get hot. Cooking is often overrated. Later, I was very thirsty because of the salt content. Anyway, I was definitely over plan with the meal. I somehow didn’t believe that I needed all that. That’s enough for a few more days.
Sweet sheep at this point
I wanted to kick properly after my strengthening and set myself apart from the others again. But then there were those sheep again. I snapped a few times with my cell phone while driving. But somehow nothing is on here. Then, however, a black mother with her two lambs went in all peace of mind on the road. I had to stop the traffic. And I let them trot towards me and took pictures. Let’s see if they turned out anything. Even before Stafafell I had asked people what they were all doing there. They had seen reindeer and were taking pictures. I got the telephoto lens out again and tried my luck. Unfortunately, an elderly gentleman trudged through the MOOS smoking (I don’t believe it!) and scared the animals away. His wife was waiting in the car smoking. I also have to sift through the pictures first.
Like in the stresming tunnel
In the evening still the camera pictures export and sort, I do not create temporally and in the morning I do not want to start still later.
The eight kilometers behind Stafafell were anything but mild. A tight wind came through between the mountains, here the road does not run along the water for once. I checked my streamlining and also used up my drinking water. For this it went up 100 m. The picture shows the view back.
Then was a tunnel
At the end above was a tunnel, the Alamannaskarosgöng. Sounds like it has something to do with the Germans: “Tunnel for German bodies”? I turned on my taillight and then it was through there. Cold but not windy it was in there.
Horses in appropriate scenery
It went downhill and was not far – only 10 km. But I had to stop again, again telephoto lens out and then photograph the horses.
At the entrance of Höfn
But I could have had it easier. This white horse stands before the scenery of the Vatnajökull, the largest glacier of Iceland. There I come tomorrow.
Today I wanted to increase myself further to 90 km, because somehow I want to make the 1800 km in 20 days. It came differently, but to it later.
View from the Guesthouse Elin Hegur
Unfortunately no breakfast today, only a cup of Nescafé with 5 cubes of sugar and 0.2l drinking yogurt “caramel”. I had bought that yesterday in case there was nothing here. I came an hour earlier and wanted to buy at the gas station with the appropriate name ORKAN as a substitute two rolls. Unfortunately nothing. The supermarket also opens only 10 o’clock, which is too late for what I plan to do today.
Deutsch -> abenteuerbaltikum.comClosed today – and no, here the working days are not different from ours.
So I troll out into the drizzle. At least only moderate wind.
Let’s see how it goes today
Nature continues to be intoxicating. For the time being I will not get used to it.
Not the quite fat gradients, but it goes neatly up and down along the fjord
I am glad of life, because the rain does not get stronger and the wind does not come directly from the front, but falls in from the right. What one wants more. In 30 km a place should come, but what does that mean here – 50 inhabitants?
If there was a bus sign now, the sentence would not have applied anywhere as it does here: “It stops at every milk can”.
Neadasch (the village where I live) would be a county seat in Iceland. I hardly believe that any of the abandoned houses are inhabited, even in summer. There are not even sheep on this side.
Funny, main road – for whom? Because of what side road?
The road dries up and nature doesn’t pause with its show.
Gigantic piles of basalt have been put there!
One is pleased, one apart from nature, about small things. A motor home from Offenbach overtakes me. That won’t be Marc and Stephanie, will it? No, they would have told me. One recognizes the tourists whether with rented car or own car by the fact that they drive carefully behind ran and then overtake. Icelanders usually tile past, even if it is close with the rare oncoming traffic. This is also the case in France. The people here are very nice and helpful, but just not a cycling nation.
Availeble as ebook and audiobook everywhere and on http://ampelpublishing.deBlack clouds, but only briefly
The mountain ranges I see all twice, opposite and when I drive under them. After the first fjord for today I have the impression, some people live here.
The first house, outside of a place, which looks inhabited
At the “entrance” to the next fjord I practice again selfies with the self-timer of the camera: Set everything, start running and posing. It goes quite well this time. At some point I show my selfie collection from this trip.
My Atlantic AdventureAgain stepped into the moss!
The wheel can also be nicely staged. The danger: with a gust of wind it falls over.
Still life with gravelbike
Now comes the first stopover with the café – Stödvarfjördur. It stands at a house café on it, but also closed.
With this dreary photo it is useless to press “improve”. Simply an ugly , closed café.
In Stödvarfjördur four handicraft stores are open, but there is no coffee and no rolls. “Only when the last sheep sweater is knitted will you realize that you can’t eat wool” or something.
A needlework paradise
Brindis and Sara have a whole room full of beautiful things ready. I ask them if there is actually anything to eat in this place. Everything is closed – unfortunately. Then they thaw out. They could make me a tea or coffee. I think that’s good and take the whole hand: if I could also have boiling water, then I could pour my brought food hot and it would help me a lot.
Richly laid table
Yes, it is possible, they have grasped the seriousness of the situation and I get every support. I pour myself a tomato soup and a Trek ‘n Eat outdoor food (leftovers from 2017) and still get coffee. In addition, I buy two packs of greasy Danish pastries for 2000 ISK = 13 €, just a bargain. This is quite great homemade and tastes but after nothing. It seems also already somewhat older, which one notices to him, not so my trekking food. So I make myself strengthened again on the way and take me to perceive every opportunity to the Nahrunhsaufnahme.
The nature outside further grandios, also here in the dead end of the Stödvarfjördur.
I had missed the “waterfall of the day” right at the beginning and did not want to turn around again. But there are always some more.
Replacement photo for the “waterfall of the day“
And it goes on spectacularly.
They want to keep the ring road asphalted and not just level it when something slips again. There are also no frost heaves like here. Already in physics 6th grade we learned (anomaly of water) that it must be inevitably so that the water runs into the road surface and that breaks up with frost. Hm, OK, except in Finland, Estonia, Sweden, Norway and Iceland. They don’t have frost.
The stones coming down are stopped
Fjords, waterfalls and the Atlantic Ocean in turn. So much water!
Horses on the pasture by the sea
Now I took some nice pictures of the Icelandic horses. Hopefully the pictures are sharp, because you can only see that on a real screen.
Delicate flowers hurrying for the short season
I haven’t really taken care of the flora in my stories yet. At home I am the man for the plants. Besides the 500 species of moss, there are also many lovely flowers in all imaginable colors. They don’t have much time, then it gets cold again.
What a nice waterfall!
I photographed more today, and just before this waterfall I dealt with its neighbor. Certainly half an hour I photographed him with different lenses, settings, in the shade and sun, because you could not get closer. In the process, even my bike fell over(rookie mistake, incorrectly parked). Handlebar tape cracked in a second place, but otherwise everything intact. Well, and then I drive on and it comes this even more beautiful waterfall. It’s like the waves last year at the Atlantic.
Like in Middle Earth!
Now there are more houses and from time to time there is a coffee, a restaurant or a hotel. But everything is closed. I have noticed that I have forgotten 17 km of today’s stage in the planning, It pulls accordingly and the last fjord is particularly long.
There I would have liked to go on foot, but no time.
I have huge hunger and the stomach hangs. Now perseverance is required. I do again my Dextro Energen trick. Two pieces slowly melt in the mouth, because there is best absorbed. But that doesn’t last long, two more. Rinse with water. With the Esserei I must come up with something. Brindis in Stödvarfjördur said the supermarket in Djupivogur is open at least until 6 pm. I could manage that, although on the last 20 kilometers again tight headwind is. I manage that, but he has already closed. Unfortunately, only until 17 o’clock open, says the policeman.
At least as iconic as the New York Police Department
As a consolation, I wish for a selfie and tell him how famous his colleagues and he have become through the films. He smiles and thinks it’s good. We should do that at home, too. Somehow create a more positive image for the police officers. At the same time, most of them are as affable as mine here. OK, there is also little reason for confrontation.
The café is open: 1 veggieburger + fries + beer for 38€.
Finally a real place again!
Also some flairWith a small marina
So slowly I get into busier areas. My accommodation is a barrel for me and my bike. Tomorrow no coffee, but I still have the old greasy pastry with me. I have to keep improvising!
Barrel No1 for Mr. Lange
Long distance, long on the road. This will be the standard
I had written in the preparation of an endurance test for me and my Poison bike. That it would be today already so far, I did not think. But to it later.
The buffet
First I had breakfast and packed my clothes. On the map I looked again at the route, then I did not need to navigate. There are not so many possibilities here.
I still talked to Mike from Ireland, who had borrowed a bike in Reykjavik and is already 8 days on the road. He has a similar sports watch but the cable does not fit on mine. Late but not too late I found it under the chess table in the living room. I had been sitting there yesterday. Thank God. We wished each other a good trip and then we started, each in his own direction.
Ring Road No.1 to the south, clockwise.
I thought it would not go up much, but simply through the valley – 900 m high on the left, 1000 m high on the right. But the valley itself is also up to 377 m high. OK
Again and again waterfalls and canyons
I tried not to stop at every opportunity, but then very often. The masses tumbling down the slopes are simply unbelievable.
All melt water – millions of cubic meters of best water.
As a car you are not allowed to stop on the road, but with the bike you can. I partly stepped on the moss, which had grown innocently only recently, to take pictures. If everyone would do that! OK, just this time. There are over 500 species of moss in Iceland.
Stepped on moss for this picture.
But it had to be sometimes. up to Reydarfjördur it was despite altitude meters and thousand Photostops a walk – 32 km.
Branch off to the south
Then came the only turnoff of the day. One can drive directly through a tunnel 19 km to Faskrudsfjördur or just around. I thought briefly and decided for the bypass, along the entire fjord and then the next back.
The sheep flee into the slope
I might otherwise miss some magnificent views and the weather was still quite good.
The mountains are spectacular.
The landscape was getting even more awesome and there were practically no cars. Lots of old volcanic rock.
Oh gravel!
On the maps the route was marked as asphalt, but then there was gravel which dried up and was dusty when a gust of wind or a car came along.
Icelandic horses
I have never seen such a landscape. With the mountains and the gravel road I soon felt like I was on the Pamirhighway, but the ocean pushing into the fjord is also added, magical. If you left the effort aside. I was now under 10 km/h – so slower than running. But still beautiful.
The sheep are so cute!
There are a few road signs that are important: Einbreið Brú – a single lane bridge (whoever arrives first has the right of way), BLINDHÆD – unclear crest, MALBIK ENDAR: asphalt ends, gravel begins.
There are really rocks coming down here!
The gravel road went only a few kilometers but in front at the top it started again. Asphalt would also be useless at these places, because the road is deformed at the latest in winter by slipping or breaking off gravel masses in such a way that it must be prepared again with bulldozers. For this reason, it will take until well into the summer for half of the roads to be open again. At the moment, many roads in the interior of the country are still closed.
Recently reopened road
Instead of gravel, there was another complication in the middle of the road: The wind was so strong that I could only drive in the middle to be able to react to gusts in time. My speed was close to zero. Taking pictures was out of the question. I had to hold the handlebars and concentrate in the lowest gear. Everyone” had also told me about this. Full crassly. Twice I had to get off and push. Shortly before the top I had three complications: Wind, gravel again and slopes.
Magic rocks and the overburden below
In addition, I was pretty hungry. But cooking was also out of the question in this weather. There were now also rain clouds coming up, and I expected that it would start soon. Instead of Galão and three cakes as in Portugal during my Atlantic adventure, I threw me very long overstocked Dextro Energen. And I tried the expired protein things. These are all leftovers from my marathons that I had packed in a fit of helplessness for this situation. It’s good, though not as comfortable as Portugal!
The Portugal part of my „Atlantic Adventure“
I had thought about the wind direction after the top. But in fact it died down and came from behind the closer I got to my destination.
Opposite black mountains
Tomorrow I drive on the other side – at least on asphalt, because then I am again on the ring road. The adventure Iceland will be funny!
This is what the few farms look like here
I was still thinking about ringing the bell somewhere for hot water. Because then I could make one of my meals. But these courtyards look so neglected and forbidding. There’s bound to be a giant farm dog shooting out of the driveway in a minute. And besides, they don’t like cyclists and they don’t have a bell. The only way that would work is if you were directly waiting for a person at the driveway. Then they would definitely help. This yard reminded me of the movie Stubborn Bucks. Sture Böcke It looks like that there, too.
I reached the supermarket before it closed and bought a pizza and a ready meal. The landlady would heat that up for me later.
My food for the next three weeks
All in all, a great day of challenges. This is exactly how I had envisioned it!
My birthday got off to a good start: We got up early in our cabin, showered in turn and sat down to breakfast shortly after 7 o’clock. That’s when my buddies congratulated me. I had forgotten all about it. Thank you, everybody!
Before we could look around outside, we had to empty the cabin until 8:00. Then we had time to take a look at our destination.
Course Seydisfjördur in Iceland
It is something special to see your destination, on which you have invested a lot. I was moved and touched to have made it this far. Already at the end of the 90s I developed a longing for Iceland. It then cooled down a bit due to the sobering facts (climate, weather, loneliness, lack of people and warmth), but came back through movies and series. I had to make the adventure Iceland. I would otherwise always wonder why I have not gone there. Now the time has come!
Rolling up in the harbor
Left and right snow-covered slopes, the sea in the bay mirror-smooth, every few meters smaller waterfalls plunge into the steep depths, the air unusually warm. There I had probably also completely much luck today.
Serpentines up the pass. Quite small: picture center right: two Swiss biker
We were only about 7 cyclists and could get off the ferry pretty early. I quickly met Nico from Argentina. It is his first time in Europe, since nine years he sits on the bike! Then three people from Switzerland. Among them a petite, very young person, tough enough to have already done a bike trip to Kathmandu and many more – incredible. I would have rather suspected her in a co-working space, preparing the presentation of a startup, a vegan macha latte next to her. Stereotypes aren’t what they used to be, either.
Read as ebook or watch as audiobook the english edition of my „Baltic Adventure“ everywhere or on http://ampelpublishing.deMy first waterfall
I jetted right off, not wanting to wait for others. Whereby jets turned into slow pedaling, because it went steadily and steeper uphill. There I took the first waterfall before all the vehicles gradually came out of the ferry and stopped here to take pictures of me and my bike. I felt absolutely great. Then a gentleman from Bremen found himself photographing me with artistry. Only at home I will see how good the pictures have become.
In the snowfields on the summit
Some cyclists had overtaken me because of this, but soon I was in front again. I needed the lowest gear and was about to give up. But then the slope eased and I was soon on the plateau. Left and right snowfields surrounded by meltwater lakes. unbelievable what had come together over the winter.
Pretty bright and cold up here
The roads do not have a banquet, because there the snow would pile up in winter, so it goes left and right directly 2-3 meters down. So watch out! My mood was best, I had put on my jacket again, because behind the crest came the northwest. Now the tunnel, which I had sewn above the frame, was worthwhile. There I could quickly get to the jacket. And the camera I had in the unloved little black bag handy. As long as the weather is good, I make it easier for myself.
Viewpoint high above Egilsstadir
Simply grandios, if one sees still higher whiter mountain chains at the horizon and under itself the next valley again hundreds meters deeper is At the stone sculpture I pulled me still another neck warmer over it, the long pants down and the helmet more firmly. Because then it went with speed into the valley. The difference in altitude: 640 m. Top speed 57 km/h.
Down is spring
The warm weather had me back. After a short stage I reached early my hostel Tehuised Hostel Tehuised Egilsstadir
It is very cozy and I could take care of my birth gagratulant:in the cafe first.
Bar – Cafe of the Hostel
When my bed in an 8-man room was ready, I could drop everything, take a shower and go to the city. Well, OK town: the capital of the East Iceland region has 2,300 inhabitants, two gas stations, 2 supermarkets, 2 handicraft stores and a few more boxes. It looks like a small town in the Midwest, no old house and there are no pubs either, because of the alcohol problem and because of the prices. Beer, by the way, is only available in special government liquor stores called Vinbude. That’s how it is in Finland, too, to somehow curb alcohol addiction. There they are called Alko.
Cozy in the hostel
I wandered through the village and then saw an old house – from 1952 – unadorned, small and cast entirely of concrete. It has small, simply glazed windows. I don’t understand it, when it’s so cold here. But they almost all heat with geothermal, the heat comes out of the ground and is piped into the floors and walls. Well, OK.
Old house
Nevertheless, in order to make their contribution to the pollution and also to get through the winters, many have such a tank.
Reminds me of Inspector Andri Olafson from “Trapped in Iceland” He also had such a car.
The series Trapped in Iceland was partly filmed in Seydisfjördur and Egilsstadir.
Andri (center) and Hinrika (right)
The strong impressions in the morning were a great birthday present. Then not much more happened.I bought some frozen food and prepared it in the hostel.
I still shy away from restaurants.Between 5 km/h and 57 km/h everything there.
Iceland ringroad No.1 